Toledo Bend Guide

Summertime in East Texas means lots of heat and high humidity. Most folks just stay inside during these “dog-days” of summer and enjoy the air-conditioner, but I had a better plan. Rita and I headed to Colorado and spent some time at the S-Lazy-U Trout Resort.

Plans for this trip started months earlier when I visited with friends Dave and Becky Nelson who are the current caretakers of the S-Lazy-U. The Nelsons spend about four-plus months at the resort and then head back down to the Hemphill, Texas area where they have a home on Toledo Bend Lake. We had shared fishing stories on numerous occasions and since I grew up in New Mexico and have a fond place in my heart for trout fishing, it didn’t take long to work a deal to make a visit and put together an article on the resort, its people and the beautiful surroundings. Supper

Regardless of the direction you go from East Texas, Colorado is a far piece to travel, but the scenic beauty of the resort area is worth every mile. The S-Lazy-U Resort is located on the southern part of Colorado east of Silverton and north of Pagosa Springs. Travel east from Monte Vista on Hwy 160 and then at South Fork take Hwy 149 to Creede and the resort is just a few miles from downtown Creede.

Downtown Creede is an assortment of historic buildings and names from a bygone era. The seven-block downtown section represents a section of Creede’s famous silver mining past. Creede boasts more than 300 sunny days every year and you can walk its streets easily and enjoy the many shops and eating places. The busy time for this community is from Memorial Day (late May) to Labor Day (early September).

Creede serves as the commercial and government center for residents and visitors and the magnificent canyon background makes a trip to Creede very worthwhile. The area is a popular destination for fishing, hunters, snowmobile riding, backpacking and skiing. While there we had the pleasure of attending one of the musical productions at the Creede Repertory Theater and it was very good. In recent times the arts have fallen on hard times because of our failing economy, however, these folks do an absolutely great job and I recommend that you attend one of their productions. For more information on Creede contact the Creede & Mineral County Chamber of Commerce at 1-800-327-2102 or go to www.creede.com. Good Catch!

The Rio Grande River, third longest in the nation, begins its journey from the eastern slopes of the Continental Divide just west of Creede. From there it journeys more than 1,800 miles to the Gulf of Mexico. The San Juan River is located on the Western Slope of the Continental Divide and flows into New Mexico, Utah and joins the Colorado River just north of Lake Powell. I tell you this just to let you know that there is some fantastic fishing in this area of the world.

The S-Lazy-U is actually an assortment of 34 homes nestled in beautiful Crooked Canyon. You have to be a homeowner to enjoy the benefits that the resort has to offer, but what benefits it has. The Good Lord did not skimp when he gave Colorado those magnificent mountains and sparkling lakes and streams. If you are lucky you can often see deer, mountain goats or even elk from your bedroom window as you enjoy your first cup of coffee of the day.

All are home-sites at the S-Lazy-U are sold with either a cabin/home on the lot or you buy a lot and build your own home. Homes and lots are still available and if you are interested in a purchase contact the lodge at (719) 658-2452.

S-Lazy U was actually started by the Wills family, and this was the first dude ranch in the area. Don Shirley and Anna Wills started the business and it served as a pack-train and stopping place along with being the dude ranch. Don at one time was also the Deputy Sheriff of Hinsdale, County Colorado.

Frank Wills was Don’s brother and they had both homesteaded the 160 acres of pristine land. Frank Wills ranch is now the Young Life’s Wilderness Ranch that is directly below the S-Lazy-U. The current lodge has a large sitting area with fireplace and piano, a spacious dining room, large kitchen, office area and living quarters.

Bob Wills was the leader of the western swing band the Texas Playboys, and frequently came to the S-Lazy-U ranch for horseback riding, fishing and to just generally relax. In return, the band would play on Saturday night at the new dance hall that Don had built on top of the hill. This was a great way to bring in some extra money from the residents and “dude” tourists. Music would fill the air in the Crooked Creek Canyon as the Texas Playboys entertained the guests and great food such as sandwiches, salads, cakes, pies and lots of coffee were served. Take Me Back To Tulsa was the signature song of the band and everyone that attended got into a party mood pretty fast.

There is a funny story here… There was a moonshine still up at the top of the hill where corn liquor was made. Guests parked their vehicles at the base of the knoll because there was no road up to the dancehall.

Don Shirley stated that if someone was too drunk to make it back to the top of the hill then they wouldn’t disrupt the dance. A load of corn was scheduled to arrive that night after dark and the pack mules would then take the corn up to the still. The corn truck delivered the corn which was wrapped in burlap bags. Unfortunately one of the bags had a hole in the side and as the mules went up the hill a trickle of corn was released all the way up the hill to the still. Later that night a man that had a few too many drinks couldn’t navigate the trail back up to the dance hall and the man barged into Anna’s kitchen to give her a hug. This was a no-no, and she grabbed a #10 cast iron skillet from a hook on the wall and gave him a swat on the side of his head. Down he went.

Later that evening “skillet man” woke up and staggered around seeking the outhouse but unfortunately he found the door to the chicken coop. Inside were Anna’s pet bantam roosters and they aggressively flew at the man and in his inebriated state down he went again. The roosters then found the trail of corn left by the hole in the burlap bag.

The midnight supper was a huge success and by 3am most of the guests had departed and the ranch was quiet. Anna lay down for a bit of rest before getting up to start breakfast for the ranch hands and the departing Bob Wills and his band. At sunrise she looked out the window and saw her beloved chickens out across the canyon following the trail of corn up the hill. She jumped out of bed fearing for the safety of her birds and ran out the door to chase them back to the chicken coop. Anna grabbed a broom just in case there was a problem with the rooster flying at her.

Meanwhile, one of the visitors had been sleeping peacefully at the still site and saw Anna charging up the hill waving her broom. The mules that had carried the corn up the hill that night were startle and the roosters and mules began fighting. Mules were braying, roosters were squawking and all kinds of havoc took place. Anna was shaking her broom and the man sleeping at the still fell out of his hammock just as the mules broke their tie ropes and bolted down the hill to safety. Anna ordered the man to round up the roosters and put them in a burlap bag while she was rounding up the hens.

Meanwhile “skillet man” again woke up and this time he managed to find the outhouse. He had a thunderous headache and a bloody ear but he thought he remembered having a great time at the dance. He still didn’t know what had happened to his head but seemed to recall some huge birds attacking him during the night. He found his pickup and then started back down the hill to Creede.

A short time later Bob Wills group was packed up and as Anna was telling them goodbye the man from the still arrived and handed a few “jugs” of moonshine to the band. Bob Wills and his band always enjoyed the fridge benefits of playing at the S-Lazy-U. Sounds like weekends always had something funny happening at the S-Lazy-U.

During our visit we had a great jeep trip, but as a “flat-lander” I would like to say that the trip was not for the faint of heart. Our journey took us from the resort to Road Canyon Reservoir and then we followed the primitive “road” all the way along the Rio Grand River to Rio Grande Reservoir. From there we went to Lost Trail Ranch, Stony Pass and wound up for lunch at the bustling town of Silverton. Eating at the Handlebar Restaurant in Silverton is a must when you are in this area.

From Silverton we went north to Cinnamon Pass over the pass and down along the Lake Fork Gunnison River, Sherman Creek, Mill Creek, Williams Creek then up Gunnison River to Lake San Christoval to Lake City, back down 149 to Spring Creek Pass and then to Clear Creek Park and back to county road 500 and the resort. The scenery we saw was incredible. . What A View

If you are planning to do some fishing be sure that you have a valid fishing license. We were never checked but did see a number of game wardens.
A non-resident 5-Day fishing license will cost you $21 and annual is $56. License can be purchased in Creede or at the Freemons General Store near the lodge. Freemons also has great food and some scrumptious ice cream. Popular Colorado fish include the Native Cutthroat, Brown, Rainbow and Brook trout. They are all scrappy fighters.

Common baits are in-line spinners such as the Mepps, Kastmaster spoons wet and dry flies and baits such as worms, salmon eggs and prepared baits like the Berkley Power Baits. Most of the anglers practice Catch and Release and the fishing is surprisingly good in some of the very small streams and ponds. Trout Guide – Dave Nelson

I took a few small crappie jig heads and curly-tail bodies to try on the fish and they were dynamite. None of these Colorado trout had ever seen these East Texas baits and they hit them with a vengeance. In fact, on one evening I gave my Colorado guide a lesson by catching 14 fish in a row. I was loving it and I am sure that he will get even with me when he returns to Toledo Bend.

I mentioned the Young Life’s Wilderness Ranch earlier and would like to tell you a few things about this impressive Christian outreach for youth. Its purpose is to show adolescents the person of Jesus Christ and his relevance to modern life. They do all of this by building personal relationships with the kids and participating with them in a number of activities – One of which is wilderness camping. The ranch is first class and gives the youth an opportunity to climb, camp, hike, and grow in Jesus Christ. Rita and I were impressed with what we saw and I highly recommend it to parents and kids. For more information phone (719) 658-2288 or go to www.wilderness.younglife.org.

You will see Lots of Texas travel trailers in this part of Colorado and I now know where all the Texans go each year when it gets hot. Be sure to pack some rain gear, walking boots, tennis shoes and mosquito repellent. The bugs can always get pretty annoying when the wind dies …and the fishing gets really good. At this time of the year the climate will range from very cool in the mornings to short-sleeve shirt weather by afternoon. The secret is to dress in layers and be ready for sudden changes in the weather... such as rain.

The toughest part of the trip? – It had to be coming back home to the humidity. But as in all trips, after a certain amount of time we sure started missing our own bed. Rains Coming

Rita and I would like to say thanks to the following folks for making our stay so pleasant. We wish we could have spent more time with each of you. --

Bob and Shirley Knox, Tommy and Barbara Huggins, Ron and Cecilia Russell, Vance and Lana Breaux, Jack and Nonien Fink, Don and Rosemary Lounsbury, Doug and Judy Wert, Alex and Ann Valdez and Dave and Judy Lickteig.

Thanks to you all for some great memories Also a special thanks to our great friends Pat and Paulette McCarty that extended us their hospitality while we were in Angel Fire, New Mexico. Toledo Bend

We Love You Guys! -- JB & Rita