Toledo Bend Guide - Lipless Crankbaits

It’s Shallow Cranking Time

By definition, a lipless crankbait is a shad-shaped, flat-sided, hard plastic lure that attracts a variety of fish as it comes through the water. Its running depth is basically controlled by the rod angle and speed. The bait produces a tight wiggle and the water breaking around the lure causes a vibration that is quite appealing to bass of all sizes. Many of today’s lipless crankbaits also have a “rattle chamber” that can create a racket that many anglers feel further attracts the fish. The standard lipless crankbait features two treble hooks that hang from the belly and tail of the lure. Most anglers in this area prefer the ¼, ½ and ¾-ounce models, although larger and smaller models are available for specific fishing needs.

Suzanne with Big Bass

Leaders in producing these baits include companies such as Bill Lewis Lures with the “Rat-L-Trap”, Strike Kings “Redeye Shad” and Cotton Cordells “Super Spot”.

Fishing a lipless crankbait is “chunking and winding” at its best and can be lots of fun. In fact, there are times when a lipless crankbait can outfish most other lures because you can cover so much water and they are great reaction baits. And don’t think that these baits can’t catch the bigger fish because when the bass are gorging on shad this lure is pure dynamite.

Few baits can beat a lipless crankbait when the fish are active and in an aggressive mood.

Lipless crankbaits come in a rainbow of colors, but only a few primary colors are needed for most of your needs. Everyone knows that in the springtime it’s hard to beat “Rayburn Red” or “Toledo Gold, but for fall fishing I would stay with the chrome or shad patterns, and if the water is stained try the fire-tiger color. A medium action 6-foot rod will work best when using the ½ or ¾-ounce baits. The longer rod will aid in longer casts and you will have enough leverage to control a big fish. I recommend a limber rod because it will get you better hook-ups and also lower your odds of the bass tossing the lure which is a common complaint from many anglers.

In fact, the Rat-L-Trap folks make a bait called the “Pro Trap” that has a special sleeve molded into the lures body which allows you to insert the fishing line and then a free-swinging treble hook is attached where the line comes out the belly. The lure rests on top of the treble hook but when fighting a bass the lure body slides up the line allowing you a better chance of landing the fish since it can’t use the weight of the lure as leverage to toss the bait.

The jury is still out on whether to use a 5:1 retrieve-ratio baitcasting reel or one of the higher ratios that will allow you to “burn” the bait back to the boat. Don’t get too hung up on line size and I recommend you use something in the 15- to 20-pound test range. Line visibility is not that much of a factor since the lure is running pretty fast and the bass will be keying in on the bait. Fluorocarbon line is great because it has little stretch and you can feel the action of the lure better.

One critical detail that many anglers overlook is that the hooks need to be very sharp. Many of the hooks that come on baits from the factory are lees than desirable and some anglers replace the factory hooks with another of their favorite brands to feel more comfortable.

One of the most effective techniques for fishing a lipless crankbait in our part of the world is “ticking the grass”. As you motor over the fishing area with your depthfinder note the depth of the grass. Now fancast the area, running your bait just over the top of the greenery. The bait should actually hit the grass every now and then to be sure you are in the right zone. Slow your retrieve occasionally allowing the bait to free-fall down into the grass and then “rip” the bait out and continue your retrieve. The ripping action will often trigger a strike from a bass that was following the bait but reluctant to bite. If the grass catches on the hooks as you make a retrieve just pop the rod sharply and many times the lure will clean itself.

When the bass are spitting crankbaits or being hooked on the rear treble try changing the color of the lure. I also replace the round split-rings with oblong ones which ensure that the knot and the lure eye won’t catch in the open part of the split-ring.

I know a few anglers that also carry a selection of different color fingernail polish to “touch-up” their baits. A red streak to the throat, chartreuse highlights on the side or perhaps a black dot on the side of the lure may be just what is needed to trigger the bass strike.

If you are looking for a tournament edge, or just want to catch fish on a high-pressured lake, the lipless crankbait may be the answer. It can help bring in quality stringer of bass and it sure is fun to fish. --

See You On The Water - JB